Surrender
A piece I'm working on that's going to be part of an on-going series. Not really happy with the title, but I'll worry about that later. Just want some opinions on the overall...everything. This is a follow-up piece to "Battle Against the Ninurai" found here http://www.deviantart.com/deviation/59682502/
BTW, don't question why she has the swords--she got them from the last person she killed. :)
WildHunt
18 years ago
What I'm trying to figure out is how I can render an image and keep the entire image on my screen so I know the progress of the image. I can render an image at 3000x1250 at 72 dpi, but when it gets near the end, I cannot see if the image is still rendering or if my program has snagged somewhere and is just sitting there spinning its wheels but not doing anything. At 1470x919 at 72 dpi, I can watch the entire image render but the end result is an actual 5x3 inch picture--very small. I guess I'm just trying to find a happy medium where I can make sure my program isn't crashing yet I can still get a beautiful-sized picture that I can print out without losing integrity.
tamaelia
18 years ago
Render it in Daz, you can scroll down as it renders and watch ... if you are really that bored LOL Daz also has a good indicator that the render is still progressing with its counter.
I haven't rendered in Poser because Daz does such a nice job for me.
I haven't rendered in Poser because Daz does such a nice job for me.
Lessa
18 years ago
Poser just drives me batty, i run out of patience quickly with it hehe, Daz I like pretty well..
Eve
18 years ago
Set it the size you want to render, at 300dpi, and go take a fuckin' nap. Works for me ;)
Vex
18 years ago
once DAZ gets out of beta it will surpass poser.
it already is competitive with Poser. it used to be equivalent to P4, but with all the coolio Poseworks plugins its up to P5+ minus some features ( setup, face, cloth ) but some of that is coming out soon too.
I find myself repeatedly frustrated with Poser :/ to the point where i dont even want to do art anymore.
it already is competitive with Poser. it used to be equivalent to P4, but with all the coolio Poseworks plugins its up to P5+ minus some features ( setup, face, cloth ) but some of that is coming out soon too.
I find myself repeatedly frustrated with Poser :/ to the point where i dont even want to do art anymore.
WildHunt
18 years ago
I tried using Daz originally, but I found myself frustrated by how hard it was to use and do anything with the program. That's why I switched to Poser, and the difference was like night and day! I could not believe how easy Poser was to work with. But I might have to give Daz another try now that I've been doing this for a few months. *shrug*
Lessa
18 years ago
See I always found it just the opposite, Daz is very simple and straightforeward, and I love not having to wait for everything to load every time I want to change what I want to add.. the ui is simple to read and easy on the eyes, and i can see everything at once.. and its faster ( i know, sorry vex bad word! ><) I get lost in poser and when i do find my way around i just get pissed at it hehe.
Poser, I have a billion questions when I use it.. prolly completely newbish questions to the point where Im too embarrassed to ask them..That and the thought of transferring all of my things from daz to poser and hoping itll be in some sort of order once I do.. knowing better than that..makes me want to just leave good enough alone..
But, I still hope to get poser 7 one of these days and hopefully the difference will be enough to make me want to use it..
Poser, I have a billion questions when I use it.. prolly completely newbish questions to the point where Im too embarrassed to ask them..That and the thought of transferring all of my things from daz to poser and hoping itll be in some sort of order once I do.. knowing better than that..makes me want to just leave good enough alone..
But, I still hope to get poser 7 one of these days and hopefully the difference will be enough to make me want to use it..
ROzbeans
18 years ago
I don't get how something 1470x919 renders out to be 5x3. That resolution is bigger than the normal desktop. I just don't get what you're doing wrong. I render in 1600x1200 and get a herkin scene in photoshop. This thread makes me cry.
WildHunt;83736
What I'm trying to figure out is how I can render an image and keep the entire image on my screen so I know the progress of the image. I can render an image at 3000x1250 at 72 dpi, but when it gets near the end, I cannot see if the image is still rendering or if my program has snagged somewhere and is just sitting there spinning its wheels but not doing anything. At 1470x919 at 72 dpi, I can watch the entire image render but the end result is an actual 5x3 inch picture--very small. I guess I'm just trying to find a happy medium where I can make sure my program isn't crashing yet I can still get a beautiful-sized picture that I can print out without losing integrity.
I don't get how something 1470x919 renders out to be 5x3. That resolution is bigger than the normal desktop. I just don't get what you're doing wrong. I render in 1600x1200 and get a herkin scene in photoshop. This thread makes me cry.
Vex
18 years ago
your bean is no longer a bean.
WildHunt
18 years ago
That's what I don't get either, Roz. I render at 1680x1050 pixels, 72 dpi (as I said, standard desktop). It is 20 inches wide at a crappy 72 dpi, meaning it would be terrible to print. So, I scale it to 300 dpi, and the picture ends up very small. I want to keep the large picture but also make it a large epi.
Eve
18 years ago
That's because you're looking at the actual output size, ie what it will print at at the dpi you have it set for. It has nothing to do really with how big you see it on the screen. It will change if you physically change the pixel size, but not if you adjust the dpi, if that makes sense. Changing the dpi will affect the pixel size, but not the document size. It can be a lil tricky, but I think you're trying to make it harder than it really is.
tamaelia
18 years ago
Here.... read this... I think it covers what you are trying to understand.
http://www.naturephotographers.net/articles1002/tg1002-1.html
Specifically this part
Also found this neato tool for working out output resolution and stuff..
http://www.colorspan.com/support/tools/filecalc.asp
http://www.naturephotographers.net/articles1002/tg1002-1.html
Specifically this part
Preparing to Print
So, you’ve brought an image into the computer via film scan or digital capture, optimized it to perfection, and now you’re ready to print. This is where resolution really starts to become a problem for many photographers. It seems to be a common misconception that resolution that describes pixel density is permanent. It isn’t. Think of pixels as individual units that can be squeezed close together or spread far apart, depending on your needs. When you are working on an image file in the computer, you are working with the pixels, and it doesn’t make any difference what the output resolution is. Pixels are pixels.
When it comes time to print, you need to specify how closely you want the pixels packed together. There are, of course, standards for this. For most photo inkjet printers, the optimal quality will be achieved by using a file set to 360 dpi output quality. The normal standard is 300 dpi, and you can still get very good results even down to 240 dpi.
To set output resolution in Photoshop, I recommend a two-step approach. To access the image size option, select Image > Image Size from the menu. The first step is to uncheck the Resample checkbox and set the document resolution to the desired setting. I recommend 360 dpi for the best quality. By setting the output resolution with the resample option disabled, the output size will automatically change to show you the largest possible output size at the resolution you’ve set, without any interpolation.
The second step is to set the actual output size you want. You may have a 4000 dpi scan of a 35mm slide that will allow you to produce about an 11”x14” print without interpolation. If you only want a print to fit on an 8.5”x11” sheet, you’ll need to reduce the size of the image, throwing away pixels. To do this, simply check the Resample checkbox again, and set the desired height or width. Be sure the Constrain Proportions checkbox is checked so that the image won’t be distorted. Then, when you adjust either the height or width, the other will be adjusted automatically to fit.
Once you have the document resolution and output size, simply click OK and the image will be resampled. Keep in mind that if you changed the size of the image, pixels will be added or removed by Photoshop. While this can be done to a reasonably large degree without losing too much quality, the quality will suffer to at least some degree. For that reason, I strongly recommend that you save the original image before resizing it. If you want to save the resized image, select File > Save As, and save it as a separate file.
Also found this neato tool for working out output resolution and stuff..
http://www.colorspan.com/support/tools/filecalc.asp
Vex
18 years ago
never scale your dpi up.
render at 1680x1050 @ 300dpi, and you'll get a 1680x1050 picture on the web, and a printable version thats good quality. you might have to switch to inch by inch instead of pixel by pixel and resize the print version. but you don't lose any quality that way.
render at 1680x1050 @ 300dpi, and you'll get a 1680x1050 picture on the web, and a printable version thats good quality. you might have to switch to inch by inch instead of pixel by pixel and resize the print version. but you don't lose any quality that way.